Keta Taisha UC
Keta Taisha (photo courtesy of the shrine) |
Date founded: During the reign of
Emperor Kogen (r. 214 b.c. to 158 b.c.) or Emperor Sujin (r. 97 b.c. to 70 b.c.) according to shrine tradition.
The current honden is from 1787, the haiden is from 1654, and the sessha Wakamiya Jinja is from 1569.
Address: Jikemachi, Hakui-shi,
Ishikawa 925-0003
Tel/Information: 0767-22-0602.
Brief description in English is available. Open daily 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
How to get there: From Kanazawa
Station, take the JR Nanao Line to Hakui Station, then the Hoku Tetsu bus to
the Noto Ichinomiya bus stop (buses are infrequent). From
there it’s 5 minutes on foot to the shrine.
Enshrined kami: Okuninushi no kami (Onamuchi no mikoto).
Prayers offered: To find love and
marriage.
Best time to go: Mid to late April
for cherry-blossom viewing.
Important physical features: Keta
Taisha was historically the principal shrine, of Noto Province (part of
present-day Ishikawa Prefecture). The location of the shrine in the city of
Hakui on the Noto Peninsula—a peninsula that juts out into the Japan Sea from
the middle of the main island of Honshu—is perhaps its most important physical
feature. This is an isolated and mountainous region bounded on three sides by
ocean. Hakui is located on the southwestern coast of the peninsula, which makes
it somewhat more accessible than the north. A number of the buildings of Keta
Taisha, including the honden (main
shrine) built in 1787, two sessha (auxiliary
shrines), Hakusan and Wakamiya built in 1787 and 1569 respectively, and
the haiden (worship hall) built in
1654 and shrine gate built in 1584, are designated Important Cultural
Properties. They are excellent examples of late-medieval to early-Edo architecture, in
unpainted wood, with gabled roofs covered with cypress bark. The honden is in a style called ryonagare-zukuri, without chigi or katsuogi, and with the interior divided into outer, middle, and
inner areas, typical of Buddhist-influenced architecture. The sessha to the left of the honden is
called Wakamiya Jinja and is one of the oldest buildings in the prefecture, dating
to 1569. It is only one bay square (about thirty-five square feet), with stairs
and an entrance on the non-gabled side. A porch without a railing surrounds the haiden, which has an irimoya-zukuri roof. The unpainted and
weathered wood blends well with the ancient forest and windblown beach nearby.
The forested location behind the shrine consists of about eight acres of various
broadleaf evergreens and rare plant species protected by law. As such, it is
off-limits to visitors other than researchers with the proper permission. The okumiya of the shrine is located within
this forest, but the main shrine is close to the Japan Sea coast, with a long
stretch of sandy beach within walking distance.
Important spiritual features: Keta
Taisha was important from ancient times and is listed as a high-ranking shrine in the Engi shiki (a.d. 927) along with a large number of shrines near the Japan Sea with the name Keta. The first literary mention comes in the Manyoshu of the
mid-eighth century when an emissary of the court, Otomo no Yakamochi, wrote a poem to commemorate his visit in 748. The next related mention is in the Nihon sandai jitsuroku, which mentions Keta Wakamiya of Hida
Province (in present-day Gifu Prefecture) for the year 873. It is believed to
be related to Keta Taisha, and this seems to be the first mention in literature
of the term wakamiya, usually meaning
a place where an offspring of the main deity is enshrined. Keta Taisha
enshrines Susano-o’s son Okuninushi no kami, who is said to have liberated this
land. One legend speaks of an eight-tailed serpent that was living at the
bottom of Ochi Lagoon and terrorizing the people, during the reign of the
mythical Emperor Kogen, until it was slain by Okuninushi and an army of three
hundred men. It seems to be a reflection of the legend of Susano-o slaying the
serpent Yamata no orochi in Izumo, and the theory is that the Okuninuchi story reflects the actual
conquering and settling of this area by clans from Izumo. A ritual called the Janome
Shinji is conducted every year on 3 April, in which a target painted with a snake’s
eye is stabbed with sword and lance and shot with arrows. Okuninushi is also
considered a deity of good marriage, and Keta Taisha works hard to promote this
image, selling ema (votive plaques)
painted with hearts which are used to wish for a good match. Especially in
recent years, the shrine has put a lot of energy into attracting young
worshippers, including a specialized web site and the promotion of Kokoro
Musubi Taisai
or Heart-binding
Festival (in mid-August) and a
Haato no Hi (Heart Day”; “Haato,” the Japanese pronunciation of the English
word “heart,” is also a play on the pronunciation in Japanese of the date
“8/10”).
The shrine also
hosts a heart-binding event called tsuitachi
musubi on the first day of every month. A member of the imperial family supposedly
prayed here once for a good match, which led to an engagement. Another
ancient/modern story connects this shrine to the supernatural. It seems the
city of Hakui, where the shrine is located, is a little UFO-crazy, and in the
mid-1990s it
became home to Cosmo Isle Hakui, a spaceship-shaped building for exhibitions of
UFO and NASA paraphernalia (also housing a library). This relates to the shrine
because the Shugakuin temple, a former jinguji
of Keta Taisha, is said to own a twelve-hundred-year-old document that
reports burning objects moving slowly across the sky.
Advertisement for the Heart-binding Festival (photo taken from the shrine's website) |
Description: Keta Taisha is
properly approached from the sea where its ancient sando begins with a stone torii.
After about a quarter mile, you enter the grounds of Keta Taisha by passing
under a very large unpainted wooden torii
in the ryobu style and then proceed
along the tree-lined sando to the
main gate. The shrine has recently become known for several special events involving
large numbers of miko shrine maidens.
Long ago, miko were required to be virgins
and to be kept ritually pure, usually being selected for the job at a tender
age. Originally miko were mediums for
receiving oracles from the kami.
These days, miko are the young ladies
you see dressed in red-and-white flowing robes (red hakama pants over a white haori
kimono jacket), cleaning the shrine grounds, taking part in ceremonies,
performing sacred dance, selling amulets from the shrine office, and generally
making themselves useful. At Keta Taisha, before the New Year, twenty or thirty
miko gather at the shrine to “toss
the omikuji” in a ceremony called Mikujiawase.
Omikuji are fortunes written on
paper, and the shrine makes about 200,000 pieces in anticipation of New Year’s
visitors. However, there are only fifty different predictions, so the miko gather them together and toss them
up in the air to be sure they are mixed well and in good random order.
Another ceremony
is held on 31 December for girls selected from around the country to become
“fortune girls” (yuki musume). These
girls become miko for just a few days
over the New Year’s holiday, when shrines need a lot of temporary help. To
qualify, the girls first practice purification words (oharai kotoba) in front of the shrine. Then they all jog down to
the beach in formation and line up in front of the ocean. They all remove their
sandals, stand at the water’s edge, read the oharai kotoba and perform other ceremonies. Then they jog back to
the shrine and don yellow haori
jackets and receive purification from the priest at the worship hall in a sort
of graduation ceremony. At zero degrees Celsius with
bare feet in the ocean, it’s something of an endurance ceremony as well as
being a brilliant public relations event. It accomplishes the dual task of
attracting young female staff together with male suitors who line up to
photograph them, thus helping fulfill the kami’s
promise of a good love match.
Festivals: U Matsuri (Cormorant Festival), 16 December. This
ceremony is held between midnight and 3 a.m. when a cormorant that was captured three days before is brought to the shrine. The cormorant is not fed during this period. It is displayed in a cage on its travel to the shrine and prayed too by passersby as a kami. It is taken inside the shrine building and purified, and the priest holds a
sort of question-and-answer session with the hunters who captured it. All the lights except for one in the shrine are turned off and the released cormorant wanders toward the light source. Its movements are watched and a divination is then made for the
following year based upon those movements. Afterward the bird is recaptured and rereleased at the shoreline. This festival is said to date from the beginning of the shrine
and is designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.
Heikoku Festival, 18–23 March. Also known as
the Kunimuke Matsuri, a procession of the mikoshi
through several towns, over five days and about seventy miles, reenacting the
conquest of the land by Okuninushi and heralding the coming of spring.
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