Haiden of Hie Jinja (photos courtesy of the shrine) |
Address: 2-10-5 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0014
Tel/Information: 03-3581-2471 Open 5am to 6pm.
How to get there: Take the Chiyoda Subway Line to Akasaka Station or
Ginza Line or Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke Station, then 8 minutes by foot. Also, take the Tameki-sanno Station on the Namboku and Ginza Lines and then 3
minutes by foot.
Enshrined kami: Oyamakui no kami (also known as Hie no kami
and Sanno).
Prayers offered: Good childbirth, protection from harm (yakuyoke),
good marriage and others.
Best times to go: When the cherry blossoms are in bloom in
early April and for the Sanno Matsuri in June of even-number years.
While you're here, any readers who are interested in having a kamidana of their own, or would like to send one to a friend or family member, please check out this post: https://shintoshrinesofjapanblogguide.blogspot.com/2019/06/portable-kamidana-jinja.html
While you're here, any readers who are interested in having a kamidana of their own, or would like to send one to a friend or family member, please check out this post: https://shintoshrinesofjapanblogguide.blogspot.com/2019/06/portable-kamidana-jinja.html
Important physical features: Akasaka Hie Jinja traces its
beginnings to the Kamakura Period (1185-1333) and a man named Edo (unrelated to the name of the town) who formerly
owned the land were Edo Castle was later built. A Hie shrine was later built on
the grounds of the first Edo castle around 1478 by Ota Dokan who originally built the castle in 1457. The Edo castle
compound was later taken over by Tokugawa Ieyasu who rebuilt it. This became
the sight of the Imperial Palace when the fourteen-year old Emperor Meiji
moved from Kyoto to the newly named Tokyo in 1869. The Ota clan claimed descent
from Minamoto Yorimasa and were daimyo aligned with the Ogigayatsu branch of
the powerful Uesugi clan, for who the Edo Castle was originally built. It was often
the case that when a castle was built, a shrine was built or an existing shrine
designated as its guardian shrine. It seems that Ota built both a Tenmangu
shrine and a Hie shrine on the castle grounds. Both were later moved with Hie
moving slightly southwest of the castle in 1607, ostensibly to allow average
citizens to worship there. It burnt down in the Great Meireki fire of 1657 and
was located on it’s present spot in 1659, when it was rebuilt at the behest of
Tokugawa Ietsuna. The present shrine was rebuilt in 1958 after being destroyed
in WWII.
The choice to create a bunrei of
Hie—divided from the spirit dwelling in Sannomiya in Kawagoe—meant that this was a shrine in the shinbutsu shugo tradition of Ryobu
Shinto established by the Tendai Buddhist sect of Mt. Hiei near Kyoto. Whether
or not the original building was in the Hie style is not known but the shrine
rebuilt in 1678 was a gongen-zukuri style. Currently the shrine is a variation
of the gongen-zukuri style favored by the Tokugawa. The honden is quite small
compared to its massive haiden/heiden. The honden has chigi and katsuogi and
the entire roof of both buildings is clad in copper sheet. The roof of the
haiden is truly impressive in scale, gained by the layering effect of sub-roofs
and building wings. There is a very large chidorihafu on the front side but the
ridgepole is higher than that of the building. This gives the impression that
the building is oriented with the roof
ridge running front to back. Two wings with slightly lower ridgepoles extend
from the right and left sides of the building. There is a long step canopy in
front with a karahafu. A copper clad kairou extends from the right and left and
wraps around to form an inner courtyard. There is a 3-bay roumon gate at the
center of this, with zuijin guardian figures in the outer bays. This is also of an
unusual design with a single level, gable roof with chidorihafu and the kairou
creates an additional covered opening to each side of the gate, giving it the
impression of being 5-bays wide. A flight of stone steps leads to this gate, at
the base of which is the distinctive Sanno torii. The zuijin figures—normally seated, male warriors with bow and arrows, are portrayed here as monkeys—the familiar of Sanno. The entire compound is
actually on a small hill and the entire grounds are sloped and stepped. The
grounds are surrounded at the base by a stone wall which helps to clearly separate
it from the urban thoroughfares that squeeze in around it. There are entrances
to the grounds on east (main) south and west (back) sides of the shrine. All
have large Sanno torii, distinguished by a roof-like structure above the upper
lintel. The south entrance is the newest, sporting a huge torii and a staircase
that connects to a bridge over one of the surrounding streets. There are a
number of smaller staircases also leading from street level up to the shrine
grounds. Interestingly, the west or rear entrance takes you up a steep stair
through a “tunnel” of red torii, to a small Inari shrine on the grounds. I say
interestingly because it is probably the most photographed spot and many therefore
mistakenly take this as the main image of the shrine. The grounds are a small
tree-covered oasis, raised above the cold urban surrounding.
Important spiritual features: The kami enshrined at Akasaka
Hie is Oyamakui no kami of the Susano-o lineage. The kami is mentioned in the Kojiki as being enshrined at
Hiyoshi Taisha (Hie Jinja) on Mt. Hiei, and came to form part of a complex
Shinto-Buddhist theology developed by the Tendai monks of Enrakuji. This essentially Buddhist form of Shinto came
to be known as Sanno Shinto. The kami was amalgamated with the mountain kami
of Hiei and is often represented as a monkey. I go into detail on this belief
in the entry for Hiyoshi Taisha in "Shinto Shrines: A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan's Ancient Religion." However most strains of Buddhism have now been
stripped away other than the influences on the building style, the unusual
torii, the statue of “Sanno the Mountain King,” and the name of the shrine’s
famous festival the Sanno matsuri.
Description: As the former guardian shrine of Edo Castle,
Hie Jinja has a deep connection with the city of Tokyo. Today it is tucked away
on a small hill in the midst of the Akasaka district. It sits a short
distance behind the National Diet Building, the seat of the Japanese
government. It is the home of one of the “Big Three” Tokyo matsuri, which
include the Sanja matsuri, and the Kanda matsuri (actually big four if one
includes the Fukagawa Festival of Tomioka Hachimangu). Many prints from the Edo
period depict the Sanno matsuri and it’s tall floats, topped by various
historic and mythical figures. These large festivals—originally inspired by the Gion matsuri of Yasaka Jinja in Kyoto—were known as Tenka matsuri and spread to
outlying cities where the tradition is continued in the Kawagoe matsuri, Sawara
matsuri, Ome Taisai and many others in the Kanto area. However the forty-five tall floats of Hie were abandoned, apparently
due to the construction of overpasses in Tokyo from the Meiji Era on. Today,
though sporting only the shrine's mikoshi, the festival still attracts huge
crowds. Though the festival is actually held every year, the larger procession
of about 500 people, called the Jinkosai, is held in even number years only,
alternating with the Kanda matsuri.
Reisai (main festival) of Hie Jinja |
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