Amano Iwato Jinja UC
Amano Iwata Jinja (photos courtesy of the shrine) |
Address: 1073-1 Iwato, Takachiho-cho, Nishiusugi gun,
Miyazaki 882-1621
Tel/Information: 0982-74-8239. English translation of the myth of Amano Iwato is available.
How to get there: The directions are the same as for Takachiho Jinja until you get to Takachiho. Then take the bus from the Takachiho Bus Center
(about 6 miles). Buses depart hourly (6 buses per day) to Amano Iwato Jinja-mae
bus stop.
Enshrined kami: Amaterasu omikami in the western shrine, Ame
no iwayado in the eastern shrine.
Prayers offered: Pray
for good luck and happiness.
Best times to go: For the kagura traditional dance
festivals, May 2nd to 3rd, and September 21st
to 23rd. Also for the cherry blossoms in April and autumn colors in November.
A view from inside Amano Yasugawara cave |
The higashi hongu is approached
up a long flight of stairs through a lovely wood. There is a series of three
torii but no gate. The haiden is similar to the nishi hongu but smaller and
simpler. It has an open grill front and the back is open, giving a view of the
honden. The honden is shinmei zukuri surrounded by a tamagaki fence and you can
walk around the entire shrine. Although Amano Iwato itself is off limits, you
can freely approach the Amano Yasugawara cave—in fact, you can walk right into
it. A path leads from the nishi hongu along the Iwato River and across a
narrow, arched bridge. The banks along the river and the approach to the cave
are strewn with an incredible number of small stone cairns or alters (iwasaka)
erected by worshippers. A torii stands in front of the cave and a paved-stone
path leads underneath it. Inside the cave itself is a small shrine for making
devotions. The whole effect of grand nature and primitive stone offerings is
one of mysterious beauty, punctuated by the sound of the swift-flowing
stream.
Important spiritual features: Amano Iwato is considered by
some to be the site of one of the most important stories of the Imperial Shinto
epic of how the ancestor of the emperor came to be recognized as the primary kami in the heavens. I describe this legend in the introductory notes to "Shinto Shrines: A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan's Ancient Religion" so I will only give an abbreviated version here. The destructive
rampaging of Amaterasu's brother, Susano-o, drove the sun kami to hide herself
in the cave called Amano Iwato and thus deprive the world of her light. So
distressing was her absence that all the kami got together to discuss how to
lure her out. The myth is central because it points to Amaterasu as "first among equals" and shows the support of all the other kami for her position (vs that of Susano-o's).
The myth is thus often considered a device used by the Yamato clans and
their allies of the seventh or eighth century, to legitimize
their rule. The plot to lure Amaterasu out of Amano Iwato, involved a number of
kami who were later sent to earth with Amaterasu’s grandson Ninigi, and are considered the ancestors of some of the most powerful clans of the new state. Of course
there is little in the way of evidence to connect the Amano Iwato of “the plain
of high-heaven” to the Amano Iwato of modern day Miyazaki Prefecture. It is simply taken on faith. At first glance, for example, it may seem somewhat incongruous that the
“heavenly rock-cave” is located only several miles from Mt. Takachiho, the
place where the grandson of Amaterasu descended from heaven to rule the world.
However the concept of heaven above, earth below, and hell below that does not necessary
apply in the strict physical sense; especially in Shinto, where the land of the
dead and the land of spirits, both good and bad, are often considered to be
ever-present right alongside man.
Description: Amano Iwato has become the de facto
representation of the “heavenly rock-cave” though what most visitors are able
to see is actually the Amano Yasugawara cave where the kami gathered to discuss
strategy. In conjunction with the nearby town of Takachiho, Amano Iwato Jinja
helps to bring these myths to life with nightly performances of kagura—dances that recount these ancient legends. The kagura is said to originate with the
dance of Ame no uzume, who performed in front of Amano Iwato in order to lure
Amaterasu back into the world. The dance succeeded in making the “eight-million myriad kami”
roar with laughter, prompting Amaterasu to take a peak at the unexpected uproar. Ame no uzume
was considered the ancestor of the Sarume clan who were charged with carrying on the
ritual ceremony of dancing for the pleasure of the gods. So it is that most
large to medium size shrines have kaguraden on there grounds where performances
are held on festival days. One might find such local accoutrements as the
Disyneyesque statue of Tajiarao—the “hand-power” kami who pulled away the stone
covering the cave (or pulled Amaterasu out of the cave depending on the version)—or
Ame no uzume revolving on an overturned bucket a bit out of character to the
solemnity one would expect of such a divine location. But maybe this too is
designed to evoke a mighty guffaw, just like the one that shook the heavens and
made the sun reappear, all those eons ago.
Festivals: Kagura Festival, 3 November. All-day kagura, featuring a range of performances.
Hi, I just found your site while looking for information on this shrine for a blog post. I visited Amano Iwato Jinja for the kagura matsuri and it was very beautiful. I live across the border in Taketa, where kagura is also very popular. Almost every shrine here has a kaguraden and I have seen it performed at elementary schools and even in an empty lot a block away from my house!
ReplyDeleteI just pre-ordered your book and am excited to read it. I am very interested in Shinto and shrines and your book seems like a wonderful accompaniment to my explorations.
Thanks for your comment Adam. Unlike all the shrines in my book I have not yet visited all the shrines on the blog, including Amanao Iwato. I hope to make it before the end of the year and Takachiho as well. Perhaps you could recommend some other places to visit while I am there?
DeleteAs you rightly point out, kagura is an important Shinto offering to the kami and especially in Miyazaki where Ninigi no mikoto is said to have descended and where Jimmu set out to found the country, as well as where some believe Ame no uzume performed the first dance to lure Amatarazu omikami from the cave known as Amano Iwato.
And many thanks for your comment on the new book. I sincerely hope it meets your expectations.
Unfortunately I don't know much about the Takachiho area but if you do come and have time to visit Taketa across the border in Oita Prefecture, I'd be happy to recommend some places here. Oita Prefecture has one of the highest number of shrines to population ratio in Japan (number 4 or 5 I think) and many in this area are exceptionally beautiful. We also have the remains of Oka-jo, which is especially beautiful right now with the fall colors.
ReplyDeleteWell thanks very much for the kind offer. I hope to be able to make it to Miyazaki and the Takachiho area toward the end of the year. Don't know if I will be able to get to Oita but if I do (or in any case) I'd like to ask for your recommendations. Just back from a trip to Afuri Jinja at the top of Oyama in Kanagawa-ken which I hope to post in the near future.
ReplyDeletePlease contact me at adam (dot) douglas (dot) esl (at) gmail (dot) com if you'd like some recommendations. I've only been here for 4 months or so but I'll do my best.
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