Zeniarai Benzaiten Jinja (Zeniarai Ugafuku Jinja) UC
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Tunnel entrance of Zeniarai Benziten Jinja
(all photos Joseph Cali) |
Date founded: Founded around 1185 at the behest of
Minamoto Yoritomo (1147-99).
Present
buildings from some time after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.
Address: 2-25-16 Sasuke, Kamakura City, Kanagawa 248-0017
Tel/Information: 0467-25-1081
How to get there: JR Yokosuka Line to Kamakura Station. Then
about 25 minutes on foot or 5 to10 minutes by taxi.
Enshrined kami: Benzaiten also known as Ugafukujin.
Prayers offered: Pray to increase your money, prosperity,
success in business, success in artistic endeavors, and safety on the sea.
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Through the tunnel and into the shrine |
Important physical features: The shrine is reached after a
walk up a steeply inclined road that leads to a tunnel passing through a sort
of natural cliff of stone, topped with trees. At the entrance to this short
tunnel stands a stone torii pressed up against the rock, and a large, stone
marker with the name of the shrine carved into it. If one were not told, "It's okay to enter," not many would have the courage to do so. The shrine itself is not
visible until one passes through this dark tunnel. Exiting the other side again brings you into the light and to another tunnel of sorts; this one made of wooden
torii donated to the shrine
by worshippers. The shrine has scores of
torii concentrated within a relatively
small multi-level space, surrounded by cliffs. But the next surprise in this
series of surprises is the presence of a large incense
burner of the type normally found at Buddhist temples, busily spouting fragrant
smoke. Zeniarai Benzaiten is an example of the fusion of Buddhism and Shinto
elements (Shinbutsu shūgō) that was the norm in Japan before the Meiji era
forced separation of the religions. Directly behind the incense burner is a cave which is the main destination of the worshipper. Here, at a small trough fed by a stream that flows through the rock, is where people come to wash their money in hopes of seeing it grow through the blessings of the
kami. In other words the most important physical property of this shrine is the natural
spring water that is said to make money double after being washed here. Exiting the cave and walking to the opposite side of the clearing, one finds a small spring and pond with a small shrine accessed by a bridge. While there are a number of wooden shrine buildings, this cave is essentially the main shrine (although the small wooden shrine next to the cave is designated as the
honsha). The cave itself is considered the
okumiya or "inner shrine" usually thought of as the place where the
kami originally manifested.There is another entrance to the shrine nearer the cave, which is the original entrance (the tunnel was built in the modern era). The map below gives a clear idea of the layout of this remarkable little shrine.
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The cave and honsha |
Important spiritual features: The god enshrined at Zeniari
Benzaiten is identified as both a Shinto kami and a Hindu god brought to Japan by way of
Buddhism. Shrine legend records that in 1185 (coincidentally the year that his younger brother Yoshitsune destroyed the rival Taira clan at Dan no Ura to end the Gempei War), Minamoto Yoritomo (1147-1199) ordered the
construction of a shrine at this location after an old man—who identified himself as the
kami Ugafukujin—told Yoritomo that if he would use the pure water of a holy spring that flows from among the rocks of a valley northwest of Kamakura as an offering whenever he prayed to the deities, that the country would have peace and prosperity.
The dream occurred in the hour of the snake (about 10am), on the
day of the snake (the 12th or the 24th), in the month of
the snake (August of September) of the year of the snake (1185). The shrine was
originally dedicated to Uga no kami, an obscure kami possibly derived from Uka
no mitama, a spirit of grain mentioned in the Kojiki and Nihon shoki, often depicted as a snake with or without a human head. This is the principle kami of Inari, originally considered the kami of the rice grain. However, for complex reasons, Inari’s animal
familiar is a fox not a snake. At some point in the tenth or eleventh century, this god became identified with the Hindu goddess
Sarasavarti—known in Japan as Benzaiten. Both gods were associated with snakes
and water and the association—like so many others—may have first been made by
the Tendai monks of Mt. Hiei. Early Benzaiten belief centered on Chikubujima in
Lake Biwa. I go into detail on the history and associations of Benzaiten in
entries for Chikubujima and Itsukushijima. in "Shinto Shrines; A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan's Ancient Religion." Here, I will focus only on
the associations at Zeniari Jinja.
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Inside the cave with water trough |
The water was originally used to wash rice seed as a prayer for a good crop. It
was only later, during the reign of Hojo Tokiyori (1227-63) that the custom of
washing money in the stream as a way of gaining prosperity was begun. This is when the
name
zeniarai no mizu (literally money-washing water) begins to occur. It is less clear exactly when this
kami came to be identified with Benzaiten, but
it was probably as a result of the general identification of native and
imported gods prevalent throughout the Heian and Kamakura periods. It is also perhaps the influence of one of Japan's most famous shrines to Benzaiten, the nearby Enoshima Jinja. It was also Yoritomo who invited the deity to this (much older) shrine, which was originally dedicated to the Munakata deities. As I
mentioned previously, both gods were identified with water and the snake. In
addition, Benzaiten who is considered a goddess of the arts,
especially music and literature, also came to be identified with prosperity.
This may have been partly the result of a change in the use of the characters
for “benzai” from ones reflecting this meaning, to ones reflecting the
bestowing of property. The main object of worship (
shintai) of this shrine is a
stone sculpture of a snake with a human head, said to have come from Izu. A
wooden representation of it is on view next to the spring inside the cave. As
with other shrines where the snake is considered a manifestation of the
kami—such as
Omiwa in Nara—eggs (the serpents favorite food) are on sale for offering to the
deity.
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Layout of Zeniarai Benzaiten |
Description: The hills that surround three sides of
Kamakura—a city which is often considered the "Kyoto of the East"—contain many narrow mountain passes, old caves and waterways. The
city thrives within these tight confines, culminating in a basin that faces
Sagami Bay to the south. The great Wakamiya Oji Avenue that was built in imitation of Suzaku-oji in Kyoto runs from the
bay to Kamakura’s most important and popular shrine; Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. Of the many caves
and springs Zeniarai Benzaiten's are the most popular and the shrine to be the second
most visited in Kamakura, drawing over 900,000 visitors a year (compared
to Hachimangu's 8.35 million). The shrine's grounds are surrounded with cliffs,
making it easy to understand the area’s ancient name
kakuresato (“hidden
village”). The atmosphere is somewhat akin to the “
kamikakushi” of
the 2001 animation “Spirited Away” by Hayao Miyazaki, where a passage through a
tunnel leads surprisingly to a small, hidden town. While not exactly of the
same scale there are a number of buildings including the
honsha, upper and
lower
mizusha (dedicated to a water
kami), a bridge, shrine office, etc. And then
there is the cave in which the spring creates a small rivulet. The water that flows here is called one of
the “Five Pure Wells” of Kamakura. The cave is lit with candles and a platform made of bamboo that stands above the water holds a number of ladles and baskets.
Money is placed in a basket and water from the stream is ladled over it.
While Zeniarei literally means “coin-washing” (
zeni is an expression for money from a time before paper bills) worshippers will wash anything
of value including bundles of 10,000-yen bills and credit cards. Benzaiten
(also called Benten) is a
kami known as a
fukujin—a
kami that bestows good
luck. She is the only female member of a group known as the
shichifukujin (seven gods of good fortune), a grouping that perhaps originates
from the 16
th or 17
th century. The group is thought to be
influenced by popular stories of the “Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove” of
Chinese Taoist iconography and constitutes the most popular group of
kami in Japan. The Japanese grouping is a mix of imported and
amalgamated gods, typically depicted riding on a treasure boat (
takarabune) and
bringing good fortune.
Festivals: Benten Matsuri on the
first Serpent Day of February.
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